No
longer content to hide under our beds, Russians are everywhere these
days from fake memes and online trolling to NRA galas, Trump Tower
and, maybe, even the White House. It takes me back to my year in
Moscow, 1988. Gorby and glasnost were in, as was rock, long
hair, and dissent. I felt so at home.
I was
working on my study, which I hoped would be the crowning achievement
of my academic career, “The Moral Advancement of the Soviet People
Because of Their Contacts with Americans.” Although, much to my
surprise, things weren't going so hot. My interviews with Russians
would go well, until they found out I was American. Then they'd try
to interest me in smuggling, you know, the usual – designer jeans,
Playboys, nuclear warheads, toilet paper.
I got
so discouraged I spent most of my time wandering the streets of
Moscow, foraging for edible food. One twilight I ended up at the
University of Moscow, a hotbed of the kind of activism we saw here in
the states during the early eighties. Spying the bulletin board with
its gigantic posters advertising a Milton Friedman Fan Club, a
conference on how to smirk like Donald Trump (hmm, that might explain
some things), and a colloquium on unenlightened self-interest, a
small notice in the corner caught my eye.
It was
an announcement of a meeting about, of all things, Lenin. Now this
was an eye-opener. What would I find at such a conclave – a cabal
of geriatrics planning sedition while comparing gall bladder
surgeries? I grabbed the address and went straight there.
At the
meeting, I found thirty people crammed into a living room the size of
a walk-in closet, literally sitting on top of one another, eating
cabbage rolls, sampling just picked mushrooms, downing shots of vodka
along with Pepsi chasers, and arguing passionately about all sorts of
intellectual topics. I knew right away I'd come to the right place.
I
overheard a distinguished middle-aged gentleman with a salt and
pepper beard argue, as he pointed at a bottle of Pepsi, that they
“should not drink this sugary example of capitalist thuggery.”
“Dmitri,
this is perestroika, drink up!” a woman next to him replied.
“Excuse
me,” I interrupted, “what is the purpose of this meeting?
“What
you see before you is our national tragedy, men and women who are in
the grips of terrible oppression,” Dmitri answered, then began to
weep openly and without shame.
“Dobryy
vecher,” said the woman, “I'm Anna. I'm sorry. Dmitri is much
too upset to talk. You see, we are a support group for unemployed
Lenin statue makers.”
Dmitri
then grabbed my shoulders, sobbing, “All over the world Lenin
statues are being destroyed by peasants who don't understand great
art. It is too much to bear!”
“But
can't you make other statues?” I asked.
“Have
you ever seen Lenin's face,” Anna replied.
She
picked up a small statue off the coffee table. The room suddenly went
quiet, everyone staring at this simple bronze statuette of Lenin.
“Look
at this face,” she said, then she began to sing (to the tune of
“Baby Face”):
There's
not another one to take his place, Lenin's face.
I'm
in socialist heaven when I see his pretty face.
“Look
at these cheekbone,” Dmitri sobbed. “I can't sculpt anyone else!”
“Listen,”
Anna said, “we all had years of training and were given all kinds
of privileges by the state. We enjoyed dachas, vacations on the Black
Sea twice a year, and toilets that actually flushed.”
Men and
women began to cry. Some whimpered, “Imagine, a toilet that
actually flushes.”
“But
now,” Anna continued, “we have nothing. Nothing!”
Then
Dmitri screamed, “Life is hell. It is unbearable!”
Anna
slapped him, pulled his face close to hers and gave him a big,
passionate kiss. Then whispered in a sexy Lauren Bacall voice,
“Dmitri, let us dance, until we drop dead.”
The
meeting quickly broke up, and we had one of those barn-burners for
which Russians are justly famous. What an experience for an American
in Moscow to be hung by his heels out the window in below-zero
weather, while singing such great American favorites as “If I Had a
Hammer” and “Rainy Day Women #12 and 35.”
Those
Russians are such cards. I thought they had forgotten me, and to tell
the truth, my feelings (not to mention my frozen extremities) were
just a teensy bit hurt. But when the party finished, they dragged me
back up, and everyone gave each other big hugs and kisses. Then we
did the traditional Russian dance of Danceolovich Polnochke, which
roughly translated means “The Groin-Destroying Dance.”
After
several more shots of vodka with Pepsi chasers, we walked out into
the early morning streets of Moscow, promising undying
friendship. It was one of my most memorable experiences in Moscow,
ranking right ahead of finding a clean bathroom in the Moscow subway.
Of
course, there were many things I learned during my stay. Not to eat
food without smelling it, not to let fat bearded men who have been
eating cabbage kiss you on the lips, but, most of all, that though in
Dmitri's word's “life is hell” we can make it if only we have
enough vodka and an unlimited credit line from the Russian mafia,
like you-know-who who used to smirk so well. Udachi!
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